Path: utzoo!utgpu!watmath!mwtilden
From: mwtilden@watmath.waterloo.edu (M.W.Tilden, Hardware)
Newsgroups: sci.electronics
Subject: Re: LCD displays
Message-ID: <22554@watmath.waterloo.edu>
Date: 3 Dec 88 17:44:14 GMT
References: <182@serene.UUCP>
Reply-To: mwtilden@watmath.waterloo.edu (M.W.Tilden, Hardware)
Organization: U. of Waterloo, Ontario
Lines: 45

> 
>    What is the best way to connect to the typical LC display?   These things
>have some sort of conductive layer on the glass as "leads" and as far as I can
>tell, connecting one of these displays to a breadboarding socket would take a
>bit of magic.   Anybody have any ideas?

There are two ways I've found to be very effective.  One is to buy some
of those LCD edge-clips which hold on to the selenium (?) contacts by 
spring pressure.  Unfortunately, these are only available in .1 inch
spacing where most modern LCDs have .5 or .02.  Available from large 
electronics distributors like Electrosonic (no plug intended).

The other way I've found really effective, although time consuming, is 
to get a small bottle of Loctite's Quick Grid Repair Resin (available from
most large Automotive/hardware shops where ever snow falls).  This is a 
super conductive paint meant to repair rear-window defogger strips.  Not
only is it a very good conductor (1 or so Ohms per foot) but it's also a 
good adhesive for fixing, say, wire wrap wire to LCD contacts.  The stuff
is quite expensive though; $10 for 1.4 ml and it drys fast, so use it 
sparingly.

The technique I use is to get a hypodermic syringe and needle (fine),
shake the stuff well and fill the syringe with a small quantity of it.
Then quickly run a single conductive line across the well-cleaned contacts
of the LCD.  Give it a few seconds to dry and then use a sharp x-acto
blade to seperate the individual contacts.  After that, rest stripped ends
of wire-wrap wire on the painted contacts and support them so they won't move
(important), then take the syringe again and apply just enough so that 
the wire is covered.  Finally, I finish off by applying a dab of superglue
on top to insure rigidity.  Works great.

I should also point out that this technique also works great for Solar
Cells, so those of you (like me) who went out and bought a pound of broken 
solar cell chips for $30 only to find that you can't solder to the 
suckers, take heart.

Is all.



-- 
Mark Tilden: _-_-_-__--__--_      /(glitch!)  M.F.C.F Hardware Design Lab.
-_-___       |              \  /\/            U of Waterloo. Ont. Can, N2L-3G1
     |__-_-_-|               \/               (519) - 885 - 1211 ext.2454,
"MY OPINIONS, YOU HEAR!? MINE! MINE! MINE! MINE! MINE! AH HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!"