Relay-Version: version B 2.10 5/3/83; site utzoo.UUCP Path: utzoo!mnetor!uunet!seismo!rochester!rutgers!clyde!bellcore!wind!hundt From: hundt@wind.bellcore.com (tom hundt) Newsgroups: comp.sys.ibm.pc Subject: XT clones: What's the best? (some caveats) Message-ID: <1603@bellcore.bellcore.com> Date: Wed, 22-Jul-87 18:24:42 EDT Article-I.D.: bellcore.1603 Posted: Wed Jul 22 18:24:42 1987 Date-Received: Sat, 25-Jul-87 09:06:47 EDT Sender: news@bellcore.bellcore.com Distribution: world Organization: Bellcore, Morristown, NJ Lines: 99 It's been my experience when shopping for these things that yes, they are all very similar and you can't tell brand names (ie. they are all brand X). I've been told that there are only about 4 companies that really make the things. So what you have to watch for are features: HARD DISK CONTROLLERS: Look for one that will let you format a variety of drives, by manually typing in the #s of tracks, heads; write-precomp and reduced-write-current cylinders and partitioning info. Western Digital models have a very good rep, and give you great flexibility. (Note: their old models, as well as some clones, feature a BIOS ROM that allows you to pick one of a very few predetermined drive types, eg. ST225. This is something you want to stay away from, even if you have one of the drives in the table. You'll be glad later, when you add a bigger disk.) If you go the RLL route, you get a big win on disk transfer speed besides the extra capacity. VIDEO DISPLAY: I'm currently using an EGA with a CGA monitor. The advantages of this are 16 colors instead of just white at highest resolution and (this I didn't expect) higher speed with no flicker. The disadvantage is no low-res games. You can't really go wrong with a Hercules/"MGA". If you do go CGA, try to get one that doesn't flicker. There are some around. As far as EGA goes, there are 101 varieties. I'd look for extra resolution (640x400?), and I wouldn't get anything too fancy (word has it that the autoswitching ones can get very confused). For this reason I'd stay away from autoswitching clones (although name-brands will likely support you with updated ROMs etc.). MONITORS: This is an area of personal taste, and by all means look around. You'll be mad at yourself later if you get stuck with a lousy picture. One issue with monochrome is phosphor persistance. Another is green vs. amber (although amber is winning). Look for one with a tilt/swivel base. MULTI I/O CARDS: These are definitely worth getting; look for printer, serial, floppy disk controller, game port, and clock. Also, many have empty sockets for an 8250 (UART) and 1488 (driver) that, when populated, give you a 2nd RS-232 port. (Good for mouse!) MODEM: If you get an inboard modem, be sure it will run on COM3 and COM4. (Since usually the Multi I/O board won't let you put the serial ports on COM3/4.) KEYBOARD: Again, a matter of preference; the one most prefer is the RT-style (with many Fkeys across the top, F1-F12). Make sure you like the feel of the keys; check the position and size of the SHIFT, ENTER, and CONTROL keys. CapsLock, NumLock LEDs are nice. CASE: The new "baby AT" style is very popular, and one dealer I know summed it up thus: "When I sell someone a computer in an ATjr case, they feel they got a lot better deal than if it was in a normal XT one". The ATjr style gives you slightly more room, the option of a "Power-on" LED and keyswitch. Also they can be stood on end without a stand, which the XT case will let you do, but it won't be too stable. You will probably like the convenience of a flip-top, if you open your machine up a lot. Drawback: less stable if the system is on its side (standing up) if the top can move. Get a 135W+ power supply. MOTHERBOARD: Look for a turbo version, 8 MHz at least. Newer ones may be 10. Get a V20(-8 or -10!). It should have 640k on board. There is the issue of 4 or 2 layer -- 4 layer is less noisy and supposedly more reliable. If I were buying a 10 MHz, I would really try for 4 layers. The BIOS is important, Phoenix is the one of choice. Of course, some people stick in pirated IBM ones; they want to be super- compatible. Also look for ROM sockets for expansion ROMs (IBM puts BASIC here). [Disclaimer: I'm not suggesting nor advocating piracy of IBM's copyrighted software, merely reporting observations.] If you get a turbo, be sure you can switch it using a real switch (not just via key combinations). Important for some games which take over the machine, and also really convenient. If you want to buy True Blue, be aware that you won't get a turbo system, and that many IBM-PCs which I've looked at are not made any better than the clone I have at home. If you're careful you can do pretty well with used equipment. Just make sure you can return it if it don't work. And check Computer Shopper by all means. /=^=\ Thomas M. Hundt / BELLCORE Morristown NJ / hundt@bellcore.bellcore.com | | {seismo|ihnp4|ucbvzx|decvax|ulysses|allegra|clyde|princeton}... /--_--\ ...!bellcore!hundt