Relay-Version: version B 2.10 5/3/83; site utzoo.UUCP Path: utzoo!decvax!ucbvax!jade!jkh From: jkh@jade.UUCP Newsgroups: mod.rec.guns Subject: mod.rec.guns Message-ID: <1895@jade.BERKELEY.EDU> Date: Thu, 11-Dec-86 15:41:27 EST Article-I.D.: jade.1895 Posted: Thu Dec 11 15:41:27 1986 Date-Received: Sun, 14-Dec-86 18:35:44 EST Organization: U.C. Berkeley Lines: 58 Approved: jkh@ucbjade Author: ihnp4!bbimg!mikey@ucbvax.Berkeley.Edu (Mike Yetsko ) Article: 12:11 I have a Dan Wesson that I've tried putting the Packmire(sp?) grips on a long time ago. Actually, I put them on back in 1977, I just was never able to get them off! No big deal, I never disassembled the gun since because it has operated fine and standard cleaning did the job. Recently I started shooting reloads that were extremely dirty. 300 rounds on a weekend and my cylinder got sluggish. I was forced to tear the gun down about every other weekend for a 'total' cleaning. Getting the rubber grips off became such a nightmare I eventually left the wood grip installed. Spending 30-45 minutes tugging and in one case pulling a muscle in my shoulder really pissed me off. I tried everything, dry grips, 'Break-Free', WD-40, Vaseline, Hoppes,... Finally, I got pissed enough I called up Dan Wesson and asked if anyone there used the grips and how the hell do they get them off. I got a worker who told me a lot of their people have them. The grips for the Dan Wesson have a square metal tube in the rubber, with a slight amount of rubber inside the tube. He recommended getting in there with a small blade or screwdriver and scraping away the rubber from the SIDE surfaces, not the front or back. I scraped one side and the grip now goes on AND OFF with a LOT less hassle, but still tight. I may scrape the other side, just to make it a little easier. The alternative is to file the butt post to take off the casting marks, but then the wooden handle may become sloppy. The worker offered to let me send the gun to him and he'd do it (presumably for free, but if I wanted it blued over the work, I'd have to pay) but he recommended that the scraping of the rubber grip was the prefered method. Don't take this a a blast against Packmire(again sp?) I wouldn't own a .357 without them! I've just got a set for my S&W Model 36 also, I just haven't gotten around to using them yet. Tomorrow they will get plenty of use!! Mike Yetsko Boston's Beth Israel Hospital trsvax!techsup!bbimg!mikey ------------------------------------------------------------------------ I have an older Dan Wesson 15-2 that in rapid fire sometimes will not properly penetrate the primer, leading to a misfire. I have NEVER had this happen with factory ammo, only reloads. I have used CCI primers, both the regular small pistol and the large magnum in the plastic Target 38's from Speer with the same problem. When the gun was new, it had this problem and it was solved by a slight filing of the hammer to increase penetration. Now with well over 5000 rounds through the weapon (maybe even closer to 10000) I'm beginning to suspect something else. The transfer bar is getting quite a mark in it from hitting the striking surface of the firing pin. I may replace it just in case. It's easy to do and probably very inexpensive. The other alternative is the main spring. Has anyone heard of a 'weak spring' in a Dan Wesson? Are different spring rates available? If anyone has any suggestions for what to try, I'd appreciate hearing them. Also, if anyone has replaced the spring in the 15-2, I would appreciate any tips. I've never had the spring out and it looks like it might be one of these 'boing-gone' situations if I'm not careful. Mike Yetsko Boston's Beth Israel Hospital trsvax!techsup!bbimg!mikey