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Path: utzoo!watmath!clyde!burl!ulysses!mhuxr!mhuxt!houxm!vax135!cornell!uw-beaver!tektronix!teklds!midas!daves
From: daves@midas.UUCP (Dave Suryan)
Newsgroups: net.rec.wood
Subject: Re: most valuable tools & other matters
Message-ID: <34@midas.UUCP>
Date: Fri, 8-Nov-85 14:42:52 EST
Article-I.D.: midas.34
Posted: Fri Nov  8 14:42:52 1985
Date-Received: Sun, 10-Nov-85 09:27:28 EST
References: <828@rlgvax.UUCP>
Reply-To: daves@midas.UUCP (Dave Suryan)
Organization: Tektronix, Beaverton OR
Lines: 38
Summary: 

As far as routers go, don't buy Sears.  Up to about a year ago
I used a Sears 1hp router, until the commutator flew apart.
The same problem occured on my Dad's Sears router about a year
before mine failed.  Other woodworkers I've talked with said
Sears routers don't hold up.  Furthermore, the depth adjustment
was sloppy and it was hard to do accurate work without a lot
of fussing.

I bought a Porter-Cable router to replace it, but the first
time I powered it up the bearings squeeled.  I took it back.
I figure their quality control is poor.

I wanted to be sure and buy a quality router so I purchased
(a Milwaukee 5660).  It's built real solid and it's
easy to get accurate work from it.  It looks extra heavy duty,
(it will probably outlast me).  Unfortunately, it's also
quite expensive $180+ by mail order now.  My second choice
would be the Makita 1 3/8 Hp model for about $130.

There was an article in WOOD magazine about a year ago that did
a pretty good comparison on routers.  It would be worth reading
before you buy.

As far as table vs band saws (I have both with a Shopsmith) I'd
definitely go with the table saw first.  I use it more than the
band saw by far.  Just consider how you would cross cut a four
foot peice of wood in half with a band saw.  You would have to
have a 2 foot throat on the band saw.

-- 

---------------------------------------
UUCP:	tektronix!midas!daves
USMAIL:	David Suryan
	Tektronix, Inc.,
	PO Box 4600  MS 94-442
	Beaverton, Oregon  97075
PHONE:	503-629-1157