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Posting-Version: version B 2.10.2 9/17/84; site hao.UUCP
Path: utzoo!decvax!genrad!mit-eddie!think!harvard!seismo!hao!kitten
From: kitten@hao.UUCP
Newsgroups: net.auto
Subject: Distributor Plate
Message-ID: <1773@hao.UUCP>
Date: Tue, 24-Sep-85 23:18:41 EDT
Article-I.D.: hao.1773
Posted: Tue Sep 24 23:18:41 1985
Date-Received: Sat, 28-Sep-85 13:18:13 EDT
Sender: kitten@hao.UUCP
Distribution: na
Organization: High Altitude Obs./NCAR, Boulder CO
Lines: 30

**
For all you lovers of technical articles, here's one now.  I have a
1974 Mustang II which I have owned since 6/80.  It has almost 169K
miles on it.  I'm trying to keep it alive for another year.  When
I got the high-altitude tune up, the mechanic (which I used to work
with in California, so he is trustworthy) said that my distributor
plate is worn.  I didn't have the bucks to just replace it outright
at the time, so I just took it home.  Yesterday morning, I had to go
out.  The auto-choke was only partially working, instead of 2000-2500rpm
I was getting only 1500, which was irregular.  As I pulled out, I found
it was missing badly, I was running on only 3 or 4 cylinders at best,
possibly 2 at times.  I was thinking of turning back, but figured perhaps
it would improve as it warmed up.  Sure enough, it did, no missing, and
power restored.  It's done the same thing two mornings in a row.

I had a simular missing problem (very minor) about 1 1/2 weeks ago,
when warm, and under accleration.  Also, I am wondering if my warm
air valve on th fresh air tube is on the blink.

Could this problem be the distributor plate, could it be tempature
sensitive (it's been in the mid-30's overnight)?  Or is it the
warm air valve?  If it's the valve, how do I check it?  Or is it
something else entirely?  Any assistance is *greatly* appreciated.

{ucbvax!hplabs | allegra!nbires | decvax!noao | harpo!seismo | ihnp4!noao}
       		        !hao!kitten

CSNET: kitten@NCAR  ARPA: kitten%ncar@CSNET-RELAY

(God, please don't make it something expensive!)