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From: bcbell@inmet.UUCP
Newsgroups: net.auto
Subject: Re: Orphaned Response
Message-ID: <57500008@inmet.UUCP>
Date: Tue, 24-Sep-85 18:30:00 EDT
Article-I.D.: inmet.57500008
Posted: Tue Sep 24 18:30:00 1985
Date-Received: Sun, 29-Sep-85 06:23:12 EDT
References: <18@noscvax.UUCP>
Lines: 39
Nf-ID: #R:noscvax:-1800:inmet:57500008:000:1634
Nf-From: inmet!bcbell    Sep 24 18:30:00 1985


I seem to be responding to a lot of paint questions today...

If you want a paint job that is smooth and lasts a long time,
don't worry so much about the quality of the paint so much- worry about
the quality of the painter.  Surface preparation and spray technique are
everything in auto finishing.  Good preparation (remove all trim and
weatherstrip, remove all old paint, repair, sand and fill) takes a lot
of time (read: money) and good spray technique takes a lot of experience
(read: money).  I'd recommend locating a good body shop and taking it
from there.

About the various types of paint:

Enamel and nitrocellulose laquer in no longer used except in restoration
work on cars from the fifties and earlier.

Modern cars use acrylic enamel or acrylic laquer.  They are reasonably
tough, high-gloss, and easy to apply.

Polyurethane is by far the toughest and shiniest paint, but it's harder to
apply and doesn't come in a wide variety of colors.

Clear overcoats are sometimes used to add gloss and depth to the finish.

Paint protectors are junk.  Save money.  Use wax.

A note on colors.  If you are restoring a car that has collector value,
and if you have a consideration for resale value, you may want to paint
the car its original color.  Even if you don't want to paint it its
original color, it's a good idea to paint it a color which is or was
standard for some car which exists or existed, and write down the color
number.  This way is you need repair work done in the future you can
get the paint mixed by number, which always yields a closer match than
eyeballing it would.

R.M. Mottola
Cyborg Corp.
Newton, MA.