Relay-Version: version B 2.10 5/3/83; site utzoo.UUCP Posting-Version: Notesfiles $Revision: 1.6.2.16 $; site absolut.UUCP Path: utzoo!watmath!clyde!cbosgd!ihnp4!ucbvax!decvax!cca!absolut!matt From: matt@absolut.UUCP Newsgroups: net.bicycle Subject: Squeaking and Aztec Power Pads Message-ID: <4300007@absolut.UUCP> Date: Fri, 20-Sep-85 13:01:00 EDT Article-I.D.: absolut.4300007 Posted: Fri Sep 20 13:01:00 1985 Date-Received: Tue, 24-Sep-85 03:32:37 EDT Lines: 17 Nf-ID: #N:absolut:4300007:000:957 Nf-From: absolut!matt Sep 20 13:01:00 1985 One of the recommended techniques for stopping brake squeaks is toeing in the brake pad. I used to do this by removing the pads and twisting the calipers with a 15" crescent wrench. This has two drawbacks: On cheap OEM brakes (such as Diacompe and Mafac) you are asking for hairline cracks to develop; on expensive brakes, not only do you risk cracking a $100 brakeset, it is alse HARD to twist those suckers (you wouldn't beleive the difference in strength between a Modolo and a Diacompe set). The Aztec brake pads (made by Kool-Stop) remedy this by having concave/ convex washers between the pad and caliper arm which alows toe-in adjustment during installation. This is how I cured the sqeaking on my Modolos. The Aztecs will squeak a bit before they lay down a little rubber; after that they're fine. Unfortunately, they don't have wheel guides, so racers probably won't be interested. They are available in standard and cantilever versions.