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Path: utzoo!linus!philabs!cmcl2!seismo!harvard!talcott!panda!genrad!decvax!harpo!whuxlm!akgua!akgub!cylixd!becky
From: becky@cylixd.UUCP (Becky Bates)
Newsgroups: net.bicycle
Subject: Re: Vetta Chain Cleaner (and Lube for chains)
Message-ID: <181@cylixd.UUCP>
Date: Wed, 7-Aug-85 12:06:14 EDT
Article-I.D.: cylixd.181
Posted: Wed Aug  7 12:06:14 1985
Date-Received: Mon, 12-Aug-85 01:26:39 EDT
References: <2086@iddic.UUCP> <880@yale.ARPA> <1136@druri.UUCP> <966@yale.ARPA>
Organization: RCA-Cylix Communications Network Inc., Memphis, Tn.
Lines: 81

> 
> In article <1136@druri.UUCP> jhs@druri.UUCP (ShoreJ) writes:
> >
> >When it came to oiling/greasing/lubricating/gooping a chain, I used to
> >be of the old slosh-it-on-until-it-drowns school. Now I clean the chain
> >as David recommends [although I use `alcohol' instead--sorry, David. :-)],
> >empty the Vetta Cleaner, then re-fill it with Vetta's conditioner, and
> >slowly cycle the chain through it once. When done, I drain the stuff back
> >into the bottle through a funnel/fine filter (cheesecloth works well, too).
> >It then gets very inexpensive; one bottle could last a full summer or more.
> >
> >-- Jeff Shore at ..!ihnp4!druri!jhs
> >
> I just started using parafin on my chain.  It's cheap (<$2 / lb), you need
> very little, it's supposed to last a long time (so far I only have
> 150 miles on it) and it's VERY clean.  (I put my chain back on the chain
> ring, reached for a rag to wipe my hands, and realized that I didn't need
> it.  You really can put your hands on a waxed chain and have no noticeable
> grease come off.
> 
> To apply, simply melt the wax in a coffee can (in a double boiler), swirl
> the chain around in it for a while, and then hang (from a coat hanger)
> until it solidifies.  The chain will be stiff until you break some of the
> excess wax, but that happens in the first 2 or 3 crank revolutions.
> 
> 	-David Wittenberg   wittenberg@yale (csnet or arpa)
> 			   decvax!yale!wittenberg  (uucp)

I agree with you wax chain idea and I tried to post a lengthy article
on it a month ago which never got out.  Here is a more detailed 
explanation on how to wax a chain.  Buy a new chain and soak it in
mineral spirits for about a week shaking the jar every day or so to
break up any oils originally on the chain.  After the chain is clean,
remove it from the jar and hang it up to dry a day or so.  You may
want to hit the chain on a plastic garbage can to get the excess cleaner
off it.  You then remove your old chain and put it in the mineral 
spirits to soak.  You can recycle mineral spirits by letting the crud
settle to the bottom and pouring the top part off to a clean container.
Now you must clean your freewheel and any part that touch your chain,
clean it throughly so grit won't get into your newly waxed chain.  Now
melt it a coffee can or double boiler your parafin (wax). Drop dry and
cleaned chain into throughly melted wax and stirr with a fork.  After
your sure it has absorbed as much wax as possible remove it and put
it on top of newspaper to cool off.  (Be careful it is hot~~~)

After the chain has cooled you work the links to insure that all
excess wax is removed before putting it on your bike. Now install
the rivet into the same place position as the other links have theirs.
A good way to remove a chain is to not push the rivet out or the chain
all the way (may this is common knowledge) cause when you do this by
yourself it can get very tedious.  Now insure the reinserted rivet
has the same flexibility/stiffness as the other links in your chain
by flexing and using your rivet tool. Now you should have a clean
chain that only needs to be serviced after 2 rain showers or 1 year
if even then.  I really am glad I waxed my chain before taking my
bike out to L.A. The salt air eats up parts on your bike so I didn't
want sand and grit destroying my bike as well.  I have just gotten
into bike repair myself and I think it adds a sense of independence
from bike shops and saves a lot of money.  Repairing you own bike
can also prepare you for trips in which you may have to fix these
things on the back roads of nowhere.  

If your a beginning cyclists don't take your bike for granted, as I
did, but learn more about your bike and in the long run you can make
better judgements not only in purchasing a new bike or parts, but
in how your trusty (metal, aluminum, CroMoly) steed should respond
on the road or race.

I need suggestions, opinions, comments (no flames please) on 
buying a new touring bike.

I am considering the CANNONDALE and TREK touring models.  I don't
want all that pre-brazed on pannier racks.  This is going to
be a bike for club rides (one day) events.  Beyond these two
types I don't know.  Give suggestions.

				Becky Bates
				RCA
				Memphis, TN.

   ...!ihnp4!akgua!cylixd!becky