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Path: utzoo!decvax!decwrl!greipa!jordan
From: jordan@greipa.UUCP (Jordan K. Hubbard)
Newsgroups: mod.rec.guns
Subject: for mod.guns
Message-ID: <361@greipa.UUCP>
Date: Thu, 22-Aug-85 20:27:48 EDT
Article-I.D.: greipa.361
Posted: Thu Aug 22 20:27:48 1985
Date-Received: Fri, 23-Aug-85 11:46:06 EDT
Reply-To: guns@greipa.UUCP
Organization: Genstar Rental Electronics, Palo Alto, Ca.
Lines: 106
Approved: jordan@greipa.UUCP
Author: Gus Baird 
Posted-Date: Wed, 21 Aug 85 09:52:59 edt

Article: 8:8

open reply to Gary Benson


> ..., I wanted to ask a few questions, but will you please use
> mail rather than a followup article?

No.  These are questions of general interest. 
Don't be embarrassed by ignorance, it's curable.  


>1) The guy at the sporting goods store told me that I should not
>   keep the gun stored inside a leather holster because the leather
>   could "leach" moisture and cause rusting of the gun. Is that true?
>   I have mink-oiled the begeesus out of the holster, and can't
>   see how the leather could do that. I live in the Everett, Washington
>   area, but our average humidity is not all that high - maybe 20%
>   for 75% of the year, but the 25% that it rains, well...

I don't like the word "leach", but do what the man said.  Don't keep
steel in leather or on real or synthetic wool (as in those zippered, 
padded, cases).  They tend to attract moisture and keep it against
the metal, promoting rust.  Cloth and wood are ok.
Don't overdo the grease on the holster, you'll make it floppy.
You might try one of those ballistic nylon holsters, they're ok
for long-term storage.


>2) I seem to consistently shoot patterns that are low and left. What
>   am I doing wrong? 

Errr...
Please don't say patterns, the truth hurts :-)
We say groups, like the riflemen do.  Shotgunners pattern.

If you are consistent then
    { You aren't doing anything wrong! }
    { congratulations!) }
    { You need to adjust the weapon to your style and eye. }
    If you have adjustable sights then
	adjust them so the group centers on the bull.
	practice to make the group smaller.
    else  { fixed sights }
	If you don't mind "defacing" the revolver then
	    (low) Reduce the front sight height (file it down).
	    (left)  Make the notch wider by filing the right side.
	    { effecting an adjustment }
	    { but don't do any of this till after you've done
	      lots of shooting and your form has settled down. }
	    { you really should trade for adjustable sights }
	else  { you don't to trade or file }
	    change the cartridge to make the bullet strike higher:
	    1)  use a heavier bullet, or
	    2)  use a lighter powder charge, or
	    3)  use a slower powder (less effective).
	    Note:  This is counterintuitive.  Beginners often
	    assume that a heavier bullet will strike lower due to
	    a decrease in speed and consequent longer flight time,
	    and that a heavier charge will give more speed and hence
	    a shorter flight and a higher strike.  However, in
	    pistols and revolvers the barrel time in the rising (recoiling)
	    barrel has more effect.  The longer the ball is in the barrel
	    the higher it will strike.  Think it through.
	end if  { deface or not }
    end if  { adjustable vs fixed sights }
else  { you are not consistent, but notice frequent low-left hits }
    Correct one or more of these common faults:
    A: printing to the left
    - Flinching.  Apply standard training disciplines.
    - Tilting the revolver counterclockwise.  Very common among
      righthanders.  Make a conscious effort to keep the piece vertical.
    - Trigger squeeze not straight back, but rather tending to press
      to the left.  Don't overcompensate, it's almost as common to pull
      rightwards as to push leftwards (righthanders).
    B: printing low
    - Flinching.  Again.  Most likely.
    - Trigger squeeze not straight back, but tending to depress the muzzle.
    For both A and B the cure requires an incredible amount of dry firing.
    (But serious pistol shooting does, anyway.)
end if  { consistency }

>3) If I spend about $150.00 on a basic startup reloading set, how
>   long (shooting about 100 rounds/month) will it take to pay for
>   itself? Right now I pay around $8.00 for 50 158 grain rounds.
>   Never mind- I just figured it out. I guess the real question now
>   is whether $150.00 is about the right amount for the setup, and
>   what pieced I should get. I know already I'll need:
>
>	powder measure
>	die
>	crimper (? - I mean the deal that seals in the bullet)

Get one of the many good introductory books, or call me.
If you mean to get serious about pistol and revolver shooting you
will use up an incredible amount of ammunition.  When I was competing
I didn't *count* cartridges, I measured them in quarts.  My typical
monthly consumption was three or four quarts of 45 or 38/357 (depending
on whether I was in combat or bullseye competition).  
You really will need to load your own.  I've only fired three "tailormades"
in the last 20 years of pistol and revolver shooting, except for service
ammunition for the .45.  I trust my own far more than any factory's.

But do get a *pistol* powder measure, with a fixed charge weight.

gus Baird School of ICS Georgia Tech (404)894-3183 (-3152 to leave messages)