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Path: utzoo!watmath!clyde!bonnie!akgua!whuxlm!whuxl!houxm!mtuxo!mtunh!mtung!mtunf!ariel!vax135!timeinc!phri!pesnta!hplabs!hp-pcd!hpfcms!tatge
From: tatge@hpfcms.UUCP (tatge)
Newsgroups: net.cycle
Subject: Re: Orphaned Response
Message-ID: <43300049@hpfcms.UUCP>
Date: Thu, 20-Jun-85 15:12:00 EDT
Article-I.D.: hpfcms.43300049
Posted: Thu Jun 20 15:12:00 1985
Date-Received: Wed, 3-Jul-85 07:12:27 EDT
References: <220@uwvax.UUCP>
Organization: Hewlett-Packard - Fort Collins, CO
Lines: 64
Nf-ID: #R:uwvax:220:hpfcms:43300049:37777777600:2815
Nf-From: hpfcms!tatge    Jun 20 09:12:00 1985

Here is a simple test to make sure it's your charging capacity and
not something more obscure:

1. Remove the headlight element (since there is no switch to turn it off)

OR

1. Look at the wiring diagram and see if the hdlght/tlght is fused 
separately from the turn signals; if it is, pull the h/t fuse.

2. Now try the turn signals and see if they work normally.  If they
don't, the chances are that it is NOT the charging system. 

If they do work properly then you have a charging system problem and
should:

A. Take the battery to someone who can test it and make sure it is good.
If it is the original battery it may not be.  You could charge it forever
and it wouldn't work right.  If not (or if marginal) replace it and
that may very well solve all the problems.

B. If the battery checks out, it is time to dig into the altenator/reg.
What you really need is a shop manual at this point (or else just 
some money to replace everything).  

Not having a schematic for the 400 or really being familiar with it
I can't be sure how it is wired or even if it uses a solid state
regulator (but it must I would think).  The following instructions
might not apply, but it should be obvious when they don't; again
your best ally is a  shop manual.

1. Disconnect the regulator plug and test impedances.  Use a portable
type of ohm meter, not a plug in one.  You should be able to isolate
one wire from the other three (maybe four) such that you have a 
virtual open when the ohm meter leads are connected one way and a
virtual short when you connect them the other way (you're just 
reverse or forward biasing the rectifier diodes).  You should also 
have a virtual open from this one wire (the one which goes to your
main fuse it should be) to the chasis ground on the regulator box.

If it doesn't pass this test then you know it is bad, if it does then
it is probably good but no 100% guarantees.  If it is bad, then 
replace it and replace the stator in your altenator since it is 
a good bet you'll be sorry if you don't.  If it does pass then try:

2. Check the altenator.  There should be three leads coming from it
and you should find a mutual impedance between any pair of something
between 3-4 and 100 ohms.  This can vary widely, but it must NOT be
a dead short (make sure you calibrate the ohm meter) nor should it
be very high.  Also check from each lead to chasis ground and make
sure there is significant impedance (what's significant? hard to
say).  If it fails this test then replace the stator AND the regulator.

If everything passes all of these tests then you need an on site 
trouble shooter or a healthy checking balance so you can just start
replacing things.


                   George Tatge
		   Fort Collins, CO
		   ihnp4!hpfcla!tatge

p.s. Today's Handy Hint
       (see note above)