Relay-Version: version B 2.10 5/3/83; site utzoo.UUCP Posting-Version: notesfiles Path: utzoo!watmath!clyde!bonnie!akgua!whuxlm!whuxl!houxm!mtuxo!mtunh!mtung!mtunf!ariel!vax135!timeinc!phri!pesnta!hplabs!hp-pcd!hpfcms!tatge From: tatge@hpfcms.UUCP (tatge) Newsgroups: net.cycle Subject: Re: Orphaned Response Message-ID: <43300049@hpfcms.UUCP> Date: Thu, 20-Jun-85 15:12:00 EDT Article-I.D.: hpfcms.43300049 Posted: Thu Jun 20 15:12:00 1985 Date-Received: Wed, 3-Jul-85 07:12:27 EDT References: <220@uwvax.UUCP> Organization: Hewlett-Packard - Fort Collins, CO Lines: 64 Nf-ID: #R:uwvax:220:hpfcms:43300049:37777777600:2815 Nf-From: hpfcms!tatge Jun 20 09:12:00 1985 Here is a simple test to make sure it's your charging capacity and not something more obscure: 1. Remove the headlight element (since there is no switch to turn it off) OR 1. Look at the wiring diagram and see if the hdlght/tlght is fused separately from the turn signals; if it is, pull the h/t fuse. 2. Now try the turn signals and see if they work normally. If they don't, the chances are that it is NOT the charging system. If they do work properly then you have a charging system problem and should: A. Take the battery to someone who can test it and make sure it is good. If it is the original battery it may not be. You could charge it forever and it wouldn't work right. If not (or if marginal) replace it and that may very well solve all the problems. B. If the battery checks out, it is time to dig into the altenator/reg. What you really need is a shop manual at this point (or else just some money to replace everything). Not having a schematic for the 400 or really being familiar with it I can't be sure how it is wired or even if it uses a solid state regulator (but it must I would think). The following instructions might not apply, but it should be obvious when they don't; again your best ally is a shop manual. 1. Disconnect the regulator plug and test impedances. Use a portable type of ohm meter, not a plug in one. You should be able to isolate one wire from the other three (maybe four) such that you have a virtual open when the ohm meter leads are connected one way and a virtual short when you connect them the other way (you're just reverse or forward biasing the rectifier diodes). You should also have a virtual open from this one wire (the one which goes to your main fuse it should be) to the chasis ground on the regulator box. If it doesn't pass this test then you know it is bad, if it does then it is probably good but no 100% guarantees. If it is bad, then replace it and replace the stator in your altenator since it is a good bet you'll be sorry if you don't. If it does pass then try: 2. Check the altenator. There should be three leads coming from it and you should find a mutual impedance between any pair of something between 3-4 and 100 ohms. This can vary widely, but it must NOT be a dead short (make sure you calibrate the ohm meter) nor should it be very high. Also check from each lead to chasis ground and make sure there is significant impedance (what's significant? hard to say). If it fails this test then replace the stator AND the regulator. If everything passes all of these tests then you need an on site trouble shooter or a healthy checking balance so you can just start replacing things. George Tatge Fort Collins, CO ihnp4!hpfcla!tatge p.s. Today's Handy Hint (see note above)