Relay-Version: version B 2.10 5/3/83; site utzoo.UUCP Posting-Version: version B 2.10.1 6/24/83; site ttidcb.UUCP Path: utzoo!watmath!clyde!bonnie!akgua!whuxlm!harpo!decvax!genrad!mit-eddie!godot!harvard!seismo!cmcl2!philabs!ttidca!ttidcb!josephs From: josephs@ttidcb.UUCP (Bill Josephs) Newsgroups: net.rec.photo Subject: Nikon TTL flash and flash related problems Message-ID: <226@ttidcb.UUCP> Date: Fri, 21-Dec-84 09:42:47 EST Article-I.D.: ttidcb.226 Posted: Fri Dec 21 09:42:47 1984 Date-Received: Mon, 24-Dec-84 02:40:55 EST Organization: TTI, Santa Monica, CA. Lines: 21 I have owned many flashes including the Vivitar 283 and, more recently, the Nikon SB15 and SB16 units. I've been happiest with the SB16 -- I especially like the bounce/fill possibilities and the fast recycling with NiCads. Both the 15 and the 16 are well made, reliable units and I'd recommend either highly. Question: does anyone know of an easy way to meter synchro flash (using the flash as fill to an already sunlit scene) using the TTL setting and not the auto setting of the Nikons (or any TTL flash for that matter)? As soon as the flash is turned on, the normal meter is disabled. The scene brightness, then, controls the duration of the flash and not the aperture/shutter combination, i. e., you are stuck at 1/250th and the aperture you set. If this would lead to an underexposure, then the flash is forced to a maximum fill destroying any subtle effects that you're after. If the setting would result in an overexposure, there is nothing you can do (unless you can arrange to have the flash "suck" up some of the excess light and and use it to recharge the battery!?!) The only success I've had is to meter the scene manually, note the aperture used for 1/250th, turn the flash on and set that aperture (and hope that things don't change too rapidly while the flash is charging). Not a satisfactory procedure.