Relay-Version: version B 2.10 5/3/83; site utzoo.UUCP Posting-Version: version B 2.10.2 (Tek) 9/12/84; site tekig.UUCP Path: utzoo!watmath!clyde!bonnie!akgua!sdcsvax!dcdwest!ittvax!decvax!tektronix!tekig!jm From: jm@tekig.UUCP (Jeff Mizener) Newsgroups: net.rec.ski Subject: Re: wood core vs foam? Comments on Selecting Skis. Message-ID: <2408@tekig.UUCP> Date: Wed, 28-Nov-84 13:23:56 EST Article-I.D.: tekig.2408 Posted: Wed Nov 28 13:23:56 1984 Date-Received: Fri, 30-Nov-84 08:45:34 EST Organization: Tektronix, Beaverton OR Lines: 82 Fcc: outbox -------- [] I would like to take exception to a couple of points raised by Paul Given in his response to Frank Pavelski (drutx!pagiven and scorplex!frank). 1) Paul says that the material and side cut, etc. don't matter. What matters is whether you like them. I submit that the material, cut, etc. will affect whether you like your skis because those factors determine how the ski will handle. I agree that the bottom line is "do you like the ski", but I don't agree that the other things don't matter. 2) Paul says: "NEVER BUY USED EQUIPMENT". I disagree. Strongly. Especially if the purchaser in question is a beginner. There is no reason to assume that a ski may be no good just because it's used. Skis are remarkably tough. If a ski looks ok on the top and bottom, chances are that it's in good shape. How do we know this? Well, the top gets banged around each time you use it, so it's condition is a good indicator of the condition to the internal structure of the ski. If the top sheet has tiny cracks that run across the ski near the shovel or tail, then care is urged. However, compared with the cost of new equipment, used skis can be a real bargain. Another factor to consider is bindings. Bindings last a long time. They don't wear out easily. If a ski is a couple of seasons old, not only are the chances good that the ski's still good, but that the bindings are good too. A $250 pair of skis and a $100 set of bindings will cost about $150 (depending on condition) a year or two later. This is a big savings. The best thing to do is take along a friend skilled in such things when you go used-ski-shopping. 3) Paul sez: "Always get the top of the line, competition ski in any of the BIG NAME brands. ... Don't let the fact that you are an intermediate/beginner skier, sway you into buying less that the competition version. Those soft, forgiving skis will be good for one or two days at the outside, before you are ready for something better. The intermediate versions WILL hold back your progress. Always get the Slalom version competition ski. Forget Giant Slalom (GS), or any other version (unless you are in to specialty racing events). Slalom skis can be designed using side cut, flex pattern, or both." Pardon me, but most of that is bullshit. Pure and unadulterated. Let's take that one point at a time. a) You can go broke buying the top of the line competition ski. You can also hurt yourself. Racing skis arr designed for racing. If you aren't gonna race (or if you don't go real fast alot) DON'T BY SUPER HOT RACING SKIS. They are designed to be just marginally stable, so they turn fast. They take a great deal of effort and an experienced skiier to control. They will screw up a beginner/intermediate because those people don't have as fine a control over their bodies (while skiing) as do experts/racers. I know this from my experience as a ski instructor. b) Who said that anything but racing skis were "soft, forgiving". And furthermore, why is this bad for the average skiier interested in advancing? An unforgiving ski is just that, unforgiving. A little too much edge and ZAP you're in a turn you hadn't intended to make. c) Contrary to Paul's assertion, a ski that's too unforgiving will hold you back more than a ski that's too forgiving. An unforgiving ski will fustrate you more than anything. d) WHY, for the god's sake, DO WE ALWAYS HAVE TO BUY THE SLALOM SKI??? Doesn't this depend on the type of terrain that you are planning to ski? A slalom ski is cut to be less stable than a GS or a Downhill ski. Why? So it will turn faster! Most intermediates I have known aren't looking to make a lot of short, fast snap turns. It is considerably easier to make quick turns on a GS ski than it is to make a Slalom ski hold a line at high speed. My feeling is that if there is a choice between an intermediate GS or S ski for an intermediate skiier, choose the GS ski. Buy a S ski when you take up racing (which is fun, try it!). e) A slalom ski is made using BOTH side cut and flex, not one OR the other. 4) I agree with Paul's comments on bindings. If you get used skis, go to a ski shop and have the tension set. Better to be a tad too loose than a tad too tight. That just about covers it. Comments gladly accepted. Jeff Mizener / Tektronix Portables ADG / Beaverton OR {ucbvax,decvax,purdue,uw-beaver,hplabs,allegra,ihnp4,ogcvax}!tektronix!tekadg!jm ARPA: tekadg!jm.tek@udel-relay CSnet: tekadg!jm@tek