Relay-Version: version B 2.10 5/3/83; site utzoo.UUCP
Posting-Version: version B 2.10.2 (Tek) 9/12/84; site tekig.UUCP
Path: utzoo!watmath!clyde!bonnie!akgua!sdcsvax!dcdwest!ittvax!decvax!tektronix!tekig!jm
From: jm@tekig.UUCP (Jeff Mizener)
Newsgroups: net.rec.ski
Subject: Re: wood core vs foam? Comments on Selecting Skis.
Message-ID: <2408@tekig.UUCP>
Date: Wed, 28-Nov-84 13:23:56 EST
Article-I.D.: tekig.2408
Posted: Wed Nov 28 13:23:56 1984
Date-Received: Fri, 30-Nov-84 08:45:34 EST
Organization: Tektronix, Beaverton OR
Lines: 82
Fcc: outbox

--------
[]

I would like to take exception to a couple of points raised by Paul Given
in his response to Frank Pavelski (drutx!pagiven and scorplex!frank).

1) Paul says that the material and side cut, etc. don't matter.  What matters
   is whether you like them.  I submit that the material, cut, etc. will
   affect whether you like your skis because those factors determine how
   the ski will handle.  I agree that the bottom line is "do you like the ski",
   but I don't agree that the other things don't matter.

2) Paul says: "NEVER BUY USED EQUIPMENT".  I disagree.  Strongly.  Especially
   if the purchaser in question is a beginner.  There is no reason to assume
   that a ski may be no good just because it's used.  Skis are remarkably tough.
   If a ski looks ok on the top and bottom, chances are that it's in good
   shape.  How do we know this?  Well, the top gets banged around each time
   you use it, so it's condition is a good indicator of the condition to
   the internal structure of the ski.  If the top sheet has tiny cracks that
   run across the ski near the shovel or tail, then care is urged.  However,
   compared with the cost of new equipment, used skis can be a real bargain.
   Another factor to consider is bindings.  Bindings last a long time.  They
   don't wear out easily.  If a ski is a couple of seasons old, not only are
   the chances good that the ski's still good, but that the bindings are good
   too.  A $250 pair of skis and a $100 set of bindings will cost about $150
   (depending on condition) a year or two later.  This is a big savings.
   The best thing to do is take along a friend skilled in such things when
   you go used-ski-shopping.

3) Paul sez: 
   "Always get the top of the line, competition ski in any 
   of  the  BIG NAME  brands. ...  Don't  let  the  fact  that you are
   an intermediate/beginner skier, sway you into buying  less  that  the
   competition  version.  Those  soft, forgiving skis will be good for 
   one or two days at the outside, before you are ready for something 
   better.  The intermediate versions WILL hold back your progress.
   Always get the Slalom version competition ski.  Forget Giant Slalom
   (GS),  or  any other version (unless you are in to specialty racing
   events). Slalom skis can be designed using side cut, flex  pattern,
   or both."

   Pardon me, but most of that is bullshit.  Pure and unadulterated.
   Let's take that one point at a time.
   a) You can go broke buying the top of the line competition ski.
      You can also hurt yourself.  Racing skis arr designed for
      racing.  If you aren't gonna race (or if you don't go real fast
      alot) DON'T BY SUPER HOT RACING SKIS.  They are designed to be
      just marginally stable, so they turn fast.  They take a great
      deal of effort and an experienced skiier to control.  They will
      screw up a beginner/intermediate because those people don't have
      as fine a control over their bodies (while skiing) as do experts/racers.
      I know this from my experience as a ski instructor.
   b) Who said that anything but racing skis were "soft, forgiving".
      And furthermore, why is this bad for the average skiier interested
      in advancing?  An unforgiving ski is just that, unforgiving.  A little
      too much edge and ZAP you're in a turn you hadn't intended to make.
   c) Contrary to Paul's assertion, a ski that's too unforgiving will hold
      you back more than a ski that's too forgiving.  An unforgiving ski
      will fustrate you more than anything.
   d) WHY, for the god's sake, DO WE ALWAYS HAVE TO BUY THE SLALOM SKI???
      Doesn't this depend on the type of terrain that you are planning to
      ski?  A slalom ski is cut to be less stable than a GS or a Downhill
      ski.  Why?  So it will turn faster!  Most intermediates I have known
      aren't looking to make a lot of short, fast snap turns.  It is
      considerably easier to make quick turns on a GS ski than it is to make
      a Slalom ski hold a line at high speed.  My feeling is that if there
      is a choice between an intermediate GS or S ski for an intermediate
      skiier, choose the GS ski.  Buy a S ski when you take up racing
      (which is fun, try it!).
   e) A slalom ski is made using BOTH side cut and flex, not one OR the
      other.

4) I agree with Paul's comments on bindings.  If you get used
   skis, go to a ski shop and have the tension set.  Better to be a tad
   too loose than a tad too tight.

That just about covers it.  Comments gladly accepted.

	Jeff Mizener / Tektronix Portables ADG / Beaverton OR

{ucbvax,decvax,purdue,uw-beaver,hplabs,allegra,ihnp4,ogcvax}!tektronix!tekadg!jm
ARPA:	tekadg!jm.tek@udel-relay 	CSnet:	tekadg!jm@tek