Relay-Version: version B 2.10 5/3/83; site utzoo.UUCP
Posting-Version: version B 2.10.1 exptools 1/6/84; site ihuxl.UUCP
Path: utzoo!watmath!clyde!burl!ulysses!mhuxj!ihnp4!ihuxl!seifert
From: seifert@ihuxl.UUCP (D.A. Seifert)
Newsgroups: net.consumers
Subject: Re: Re: Sears batteries and alternators
Message-ID: <1369@ihuxl.UUCP>
Date: Mon, 24-Sep-84 08:42:21 EDT
Article-I.D.: ihuxl.1369
Posted: Mon Sep 24 08:42:21 1984
Date-Received: Wed, 26-Sep-84 08:19:08 EDT
References: <57@umcp-cs.UUCP> <69600009@hp-pcd.UUCP>
Organization: AT&T Bell Labs, Naperville, IL
Lines: 25

10-20 Amps from an alternator?  I'd say *at least* 30, for
an old car, and more like 50-70 for a newer one.  This should
be in the owners manual.  The actual current generated will
depend on the state of the battery.  I've seen my ammeter at
50 amps when the battery was really dead, the alternator is
a 55amp, which indicates that the electric fuel pump, ignition,
etc. were using about 5 Amps.
	
What they should have been measuring, as has been pointed out,
was voltage.  The voltage regulator should maintain about 14 Volts.

I don't like Sears batteries because they leak acid all over
the place.  Once had a new set of battery cable clamps die
in a month from all the acid.  Wards seem to be much better.
But, the new and glorious battery to get is called a "Torquestarter".
650 Amps at 0 degrees F!!  Totally sealed, no free acid, no gas
to explode.  Just put one in a couple weeks ago, waiting to see
how it does this winter.  Problem with these is they aren't sold
in every shopping mall in the country.
-- 
	_____
       /_____\			"Sink the Lousia?"
      /_______\
	|___|			    Snoopy
    ____|___|_____	       ihnp4!ihuxl!seifert