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From: jcp@brl-tgr.ARPA (Joe Pistritto )
Newsgroups: net.rec.photo
Subject: Re: Cold Weather Photography
Message-ID: <4845@brl-tgr.ARPA>
Date: Sun, 23-Sep-84 23:29:33 EDT
Article-I.D.: brl-tgr.4845
Posted: Sun Sep 23 23:29:33 1984
Date-Received: Wed, 26-Sep-84 06:07:58 EDT
References: <486@hou2d.UUCP>
Organization: Ballistics Research Lab
Lines: 27

My experience with cold weather stems from two area, taking shots outdoors
in New England winters (0 to -10F), and a short stint on the North Slope
of Alaska (-40F to -20F).  In all cases I used a 35mm camera, taking
slide film (usually Ektachrome 64, my standard garden variety slide
film).  The only major problem I had was lense fogging up when I came
inside from the outside cold air.   After a while, I learned to leave
my camera in a cool dry area (above freezing, but not much), for a while
before and after exiting into the sub-zero stuff.  Also, I used a UV(0)
filter at all times on my lenses, and *this is important* I INSTALLED
the filters on the lenses outside  in below freezing temps.  (This
makes the air between the lense and the filter low-humidity air, preventing
ice-fog on the inside of the filter, this was a BIG problem in Alaska with
the humidified buildings and the exterior -40F temps.  Fortunately, I thought
of it before going, and remembered to remove all my lense filters and
re-install them immediately after arriving on-site.  I DIDN'T TOUCH them
after that, (particularly inside).

I have heard that instant-print cameras don't work at all well below
freezing.  (the chemical reactions to make the prints are slowed
dramatically by cold, (although SX-70 film will still develop at
25F or so, it just takes like 10 minutes to do so).  Below that, I suspect
the chemicals in the film may freeze, destroying it.  The trick of holding
the camera inside your jacket and the popping it out to take a shot is
*BAD* because the lense will usually fog up due to the humidity near
your body.

						-JCP-