Relay-Version: version B 2.10 5/3/83; site utzoo.UUCP Posting-Version: version B 2.10.1 exptools 1/6/84; site ihuxl.UUCP Path: utzoo!watmath!clyde!burl!ulysses!mhuxj!ihnp4!ihuxl!seifert From: seifert@ihuxl.UUCP (D.A. Seifert) Newsgroups: net.consumers Subject: Re: Re: Sears batteries and alternators Message-ID: <1369@ihuxl.UUCP> Date: Mon, 24-Sep-84 08:42:21 EDT Article-I.D.: ihuxl.1369 Posted: Mon Sep 24 08:42:21 1984 Date-Received: Wed, 26-Sep-84 08:19:08 EDT References: <57@umcp-cs.UUCP> <69600009@hp-pcd.UUCP> Organization: AT&T Bell Labs, Naperville, IL Lines: 25 10-20 Amps from an alternator? I'd say *at least* 30, for an old car, and more like 50-70 for a newer one. This should be in the owners manual. The actual current generated will depend on the state of the battery. I've seen my ammeter at 50 amps when the battery was really dead, the alternator is a 55amp, which indicates that the electric fuel pump, ignition, etc. were using about 5 Amps. What they should have been measuring, as has been pointed out, was voltage. The voltage regulator should maintain about 14 Volts. I don't like Sears batteries because they leak acid all over the place. Once had a new set of battery cable clamps die in a month from all the acid. Wards seem to be much better. But, the new and glorious battery to get is called a "Torquestarter". 650 Amps at 0 degrees F!! Totally sealed, no free acid, no gas to explode. Just put one in a couple weeks ago, waiting to see how it does this winter. Problem with these is they aren't sold in every shopping mall in the country. -- _____ /_____\ "Sink the Lousia?" /_______\ |___| Snoopy ____|___|_____ ihnp4!ihuxl!seifert